RIDING THE AVENUE OF THE GIANTS

  Aug 4: The Redwoods, as we all know, are absolutely Massive. They flank the famed Avenue of the Giants for mile upon mile upon mile. It is a shaded, winding road that runs beside the busy Route 101; it is quiet, the black asphalt dappled with sunlight, the air cool and moist even in August. Some of these trees were alive BEFORE JESUS. They were quietly growing as the Bubonic Plague killed off a third of Europe. They’ve been standing, reaching upward, photosynthesizing, as humanity has ebbed and flowed and exploded and invented and killed it’s way noisily and quickly through the centuries. The presence of such old, steadfast and powerful living things is humbling and beautiful. They are the Whales of the Land. 

Our bikes, whispering along, whisking us West thru this cathedral of nature, felt like the right way to traverse such a section of road. Slow enough to appreciate things...not even really wanting to stop for photos, just enjoying the light and the coolness. Last night in our tent, fly off, stars shining through the trees, distant throb of bass from a nearby reggae fest mingling with crickets--we got to sleep in the presence of the earth’s true Giants. 

GOING COASTAL

Here are a couple of pics of the Oregon coast. It was pretty incredible to say the least, also incredibly cold! We haven't actually been IN the ocean, but we get as close as possible, as often as possible. We even saw a dead sperm-whale on the beach right on the CA border! I'll post some photos of that on the photo page soon.

CALIFORNIA!

Aug 1: Well, we made it to California. Headed down the coast to the Bay Area. Tonight we're in Arcata. Last night we camped amongst the redwoods on the side of the 101. 3450 Miles.

This tree was next to our little camp last night. What a massive f*cker!

MAKIN' BAKIN'

Getting Necklaces Prepped in Portland. We're ready whenever you are! Been inscribing and sending all week! Thanks for the orders!

A SMELL WORTH MENTIONING

Strawberry season in the Northwest has come to a close and farmers are mowing down the plants in the many U-Pick fields that scatter across the agricultural landscape west of Portland Oregon. It's a beautiful time of year. Fields of wheat have turned a brilliant blond, hay-bales dot the hills, blueberry bushes bend under the weight of their fruit, gardens are exploding in front yards, orchards are full; it's a quintessential picture of Bountiful Americana.

We were zig-zagging our way west on back roads toward the Tillamook State Forest, celebrating our return to life on the road after nearly 2 weeks of visiting and lazy-ing about with my sister--and as we approached a little crossroads we were overcome by the most intoxicating smell. It was citrusy, hot, tangy and sweet--a little off, but so fragrant and mysterious, a perfect Eau d' Summer... my best guess was apricots baking in the sunshine, but Zach could tell it was strawberries right away. And then there it was, one of those huge, freshly cut, U-Pick fields--a massacre of strawberries as far as the eye could see--a million little fruity bodies in sweet decay giving their parting gift....

I took as many slow, deep breaths as I could without hyperventilating. That moment IS this summer for me, replete now with that scent. Hot sun on my sweaty back, an incredible landscape, the click of shifting gears, Zach's steady pedaling in front of me, our flag-pole fluttering in the breeze....almost brings a tear to my eye to try to describe it here. I wanted to share the perfection of that fleeting, quiet, moment. I wish you could smell it. Sadly, no photos because my phone died.

OOPS! NEWSLETTER NOT SENDING?

SO....didn't realize for a while that our weekly emails had somehow ceased! I've been trying to fix it for a couple of weeks, but my fixes haven't been working! Sorry about that. Trying to Fix It Again, may have already but am not 100% sure. Dang.

REPAIRS ARE NEVER-ENDING!!

I know its just par for the course, but something is always wearing out, needing maintenance or just plain giving up, and its driving me crazy! In the couple of days since we left Portland my new iPhone died completely (thats the only camera I've got), we got a couple of wicked flats, 3 of Zach spokes broke, his chain got twisted in a mysterious way and broke, my tires are about worn out, the pump broke, cleats wore out.....AND I lost my precious Swiss Army Knife (Found It!!) We can't go 3 days without SOMETHING! I want to cry. Zach is Mr. Patient and doesn't get phased by stopping every hour for a repair, but it totally kills my momentum! Not to mention, it feels like we're always spending a ton of money just to keep things functioning. I'm just grumpy and wanted to let y'all know its not all roses all the time--I know I've been really positive on the blog in general....and I shouldn't complain....but...argh. Frustrating. We just hit 3,000 miles so, yeah, stuff is bound to wear out. Bah.

THE BEST WAY TO SEE A CITY

AN EARLY FOLDING BIKE, SEEN AT THE PORTLAND ART MUSEUM'S CYCLEPEDIA EXHIBIT

I've explored many a city by walking, taking public transport, driving or a combo of those things. But, far and away, riding a bike around a new city wins out as the awesomest way to experience a new city. Once you become comfortable with riding in traffic its just so fast and flexible that you absolutely can't beat it. You don't have to pay for parking--don't need to wait for the bus/train--you always get to the front of the light--you can play pedestrian if you need to--and you can ride right up to wherever it is you want to go, VIP-style.

We've been stopping a lot to check out what America's cities have to offer--we spent a week in New Orleans, 10 days in Austin, 7 days in Santa Fe, 7 days in Seattle, and now we're in Portland; we're starting to get good at checking stuff out on our bikes. I wanted to put a plug for city exploring by bike because its so super-practical...and just plain fun.

Our ideal exploring day involves a couple of coffee stops, a museum or public garden or something like that, finding a waterfront, stopping here and there to take photos, doing a few errands, and then stopping in for a drink and an appetizer at a couple of different recommended eateries....we cover anywhere from 3-40 miles in a day like that, and we come away with a thorough feel for a place. 

PORTLAND!

We are in Portland! We're going to drink our fill of espresso--pick up our jewelry stamping stuff, and on Wednesday the 17th (thursday...friday?) we head to the coast where we'll ride the iconic Rt. 101 south to the Bay Area...Looking forward to camping on the beach! 

<< BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND >>

JULY 10: Last week we sold off the last two of the pre-stamped necklaces that we brought with us, and we decided to get some more supplies sent so that we could do customized pieces again. We're taking pre-orders.

It's not like people are completely banging down the door, but we get a steady stream of interest and requests so it seems like we should take the hint. Or I should take the hint rather, Zach has wanted to make them all along. Initially  I was so overwhelmed by all the unknowns that I thought doing the necklaces would be too much for me to handle.

But here we are. Shit's figured out. We are ready again. Hope to receive the stuff we need in a week or so, and we will get cranking from there--I will post an official notice when they are ready. If you're interested in pre-ordering send me an email!

GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

JULY 5: We just came out of an electric + interntet scarcity period, but we're back on the grid now--in Oregon! Updates should start flowing a little more regularly now!

YOU CAN ALWAYS MAKE MORE MONEY BUT YOU CAN'T GET YOUR TIME BACK

LAST WEEK WE HIT 2,500 MILES!

A week or so ago we got an email from someone we met in Colorado, it made us really happy:

'...Thanks again for doing what you are doing. You both are such an inspiration and meeting you has given me new hope and a better perspective on things in my own life. I am a romantic at heart and your traveling together has to be one of the coolest, sweetest and seriously romantic things I have heard of in long time...'

Here's a clunky sentiment to express: there are days when its hard to justify to ourselves what exactly we’re doing. There’s no ‘cause’. We’ve got careers to figure out. We’re spending money that might be put to more sensible use elsewhere. Lives are on pause. WHY are we on this little expedition? I don’t even fully know: just to Do It and see stuff and to maybe find an awesome place to live... Almost feels like we need some justification. But then we get an email like this and it’s a reminder that simply the act of doing something for the sake of itself can be cause enough; doing something challenging and basic can inspire and excite others in a way you never could’ve expected. We’ve encountered such overwhelming and consistant enthusiasm since the moment we set out that its begun to feel like its own reason to pedal... Making people excited feels pretty amazing. Your happy is our happy. Our happy is your happy. Marinating in good vibes, upping the overall positive-life-experience quotient, THAT is cause enough. 

NY PEOPLE COME TO SEATTLE

Seems we had a week choc-full-o’ familiar faces. We stayed with Stephen J, someone Zach and I grew up with. We visited for a whole day with the Martins, our good friends from home who happen to be visiting Seattle for a bar mitzvah. Then, my pal Stephanie’s man, Shawn Crawford, was in town with Jiffy Marker from Vancouver who were playing a record-release show at the Comet Tavern in Capitol Hill.  The band people were acquaintances too. Stephen, Zach and I also met up with Jess Hamilton + Jim Carey (also NY folk) and closed out a little dive-bar called The Knarr one night. We just seemed to have dropped in on a good moment and it was nice to be with some non-strangers for a change. We’ve made a lot of wonderful new friends on this trip, but a familiar face here and there feels relaxing in a whole different kind of way. Really nice to see everyone. So that was….lets see, about 10 people. Not bad timing for Seattle, right? 

CLIMBING IN SEATTLE

JUNE 26, Seattle: Busy week in Seattle. A trip to the Aquarium, BBQ, fun at a Rock Gym, a show, a visit to the Gum Wall, a bar or two. Coffee. Pizza. We stayed with Stefan Janizewski who’s getting his PhD in Physics (?) at Washington U, living in NE Seattle. He gave us a spot on his futon for 7 very very comfy nights. 

BEAUTIFUL WALLS OF THE ROCK GYM

Sometime in the past couple of years Stephen has taken up rock-climbing, and he brought us to the amazing $5 Friday at a local rock gym, the Stone Garden. 

We’ve never really Climbed before, and I guess what we were doing was technically called Bouldering. No harness and ropes to complicate things—you just pick a route and climb up it, following color-coded route-tape until you get to the top. Then you climb down, then pick another, do it again. It’s incredibly challenging. Once or twice I thought I was going to fall to the squishy mats below because my hands cramped up pretty badly; you use muscles you don’t even know you have. The walls themselves look fantastic, like pop-art: little bright-colored shapes, (some just rock-y shapes, some like skulls, telephones, neon baby-heads…) all arranged in a beautiful chaos on slanting, faceted walls. Chalky hand prints everywhere.

THE GUM WALL, DOESN'T THIS LOOK LIKE THE ROCK GYM WALL? SORTA?

WET IN THE NORTHWEST

 

1/ Zach, trying to stay warm in the rain w/ Corndog + Coffee 2/ Picnic Table at our Hiker-Biker Campsite on Whidbey Island

SEATTLE--Friday June 21: 

If the Southwest was Life Affirming because it’s possible to survive there;
the Northwest is Life Affirming because life thrives here:

The Southwest was dusty and reflective, dry and hot; the Northwest is a cool and moist, a green light-sink. It’s all shadows and moss and dappled sunlight streaming through branches. It’s sweaters and tea and silver-gray skies. It’s bookstores and rain and Doc Martins. If the Southwest was Copperheads and Dust-Devils; the Northwest is Eagles and Salmon and rain.

If the Southwest was hot sun baking the tent in the morning; the Northwest is condensation in the tent in the morning. If the Southwest was the perfect Taco and a turquoise earring; then the Northwest is the perfect Espresso and a plaid button-up shirt. If the Southwest air smelled of Poderosa Linen and melting tar; then the Nortwest smells of musky dirt and roadside berries the size of your thumb. The Southwest was a Toyota Tacoma with a Cap On, gray hair,  and biking 60 miles without a water-stop; the Northwest is a Cadet-Blue Volvo, pink hair, and biking 70 miles in the pouring rain.

The desert left me parched and thirsty and here I feel no need to drink. I love both environs in their way, but water WATER WATER, it’s the stuff of life. I’m a Northern girl. I like moisture. I feel relieved to be in a place like this.

SURPRISE!

We are in lush, verdant, Vancouver BC. Bet you didn't see that coming!

We decided we were ready for the West Coast leg of our trip. The winds blow north to south on the coast, so going DOWN is just the smarter way to go. I wanted desperately to go up so that our route would look more complete, but it was silly. After the Rockies we were in for a lot more hot desert and it really seemed crazy to do anything but go North before heading down. So here we are, in Vancouver. Its so wet and juicy and delicious after all that dusty dry interior-air. Just for fun, this is my favorite sign in the incredibly low-budget hostel where we are staying, really gives you a feel for the place:

MOUNTAIN PASS MADNESS

The mountain passes between Durango, Silverton and Ouray CO were epic. My birthday ride esp was challenging, as anticipated, the road sloping up for most of the 50 miles we rode that day. Cars squeezing past, skinny curves and vertigo-inducing drop-offs. Killer views. People leaning out the window shouting “YOU'RE CRAZY!!!!” That night we made camp at Molas Pass at 11,000 feet, the snowy, ragged  mountains surrounding  our little camp. We had a brownie as birthday-cake (pics will be in the photo section soon), pumped drinking water from a mountain pond (zapped it with our Steri-Pen) and watched the sun go down on a perfect day. We were pretty dirty, and our dinner was certainly less than gourmet BUT we’d just tackled a stretch of road that I’d been dreading for weeks and it just wasn’t all that bad.  That’s all she wrote. 30 and stronger than ever. Slept like a rock.

The next day was easier but even more remarkable. The Million Dollar Highway into Ouray over Red Mountain Pass proved to be even more stunning. The rocks, mountains, cliffs, colors…man was it DRAMATIC! I was half riding, half gaping. Again, some crazy-ass drop offs. We mostly rode in the middle of the lane—if I have to choose between annoying a motorist and certain death, well, I choose to annoy. No guard-rails. The pic of Zach above hardly does it justice. You just feel small, you know?

30, MY TURN!

Tomorrow I turn 30 years old. All grown up. We're going to do our hardest day yet--and I think its a perfectly appropriate way to spend the day--climbing up through the Rockies...

ONE BROKEN WHEEL AND TWO RED PICKUPS

 

JUNE 4-- ONE MILE shy of our destination on Sunday, Zach’s rear wheel hub broke. It just gave up. 2,000 miles of carrying 175lb Zach and his 125lbs of stuff, and I guess it just had enough. Over the course of 52 miles that day we’d climbed 3,500 feet to about 10,000 feet above sea level. The air was thin. It was threatening rain. We had to push our bikes that last mile into the campsite at Hopewell Lake in the Carson National Forrest where we were hoping to get a shower (no dice btw). 

We were in the literal MIDDLE OF NOWHERE. 52 miles back to Taos, 50 miles West to Chama, 100 miles from the bike shops in Pagosa Springs CO.  The idea of back-tracking was too discouraging, so the plan was to stick our thumbs out and see if one of the three cars that might pass us the next day could bring us closer to Pagosa Springs, just across the border. As luck would have it, the next morning the camp-site host Sara took pity on us and brought us to Chama, where there would be more traffic. We really had no choice but to gladly accept her offer; we threw our stuff into the back of her Big Red Pickup and shared a very nice ride with her 50 miles down through the mountains. 

In Chama we made a cardboard sign: BROKEN BIKE xxx PAGOSA SPRINGS (cause’ doncha know, we’re old pros at hitchhiking since our escapade a couple of weeks back) and 15 minutes later two old Apache dudes in a red pickup pulled over. They we’re cruising. I’m retired and my partner here is blind so we like to ride around together.  There was no room in the cab, so Zach and I piled into the back with our bikes. We rode for another 50 miles, sitting in the dirty truck-bed, buffeted by wind watching the amazing scenery roll by.

They were planning on dropping us earlier but decided to just take us all the way to Pagosa Springs, allegedly home of the largest natural hot-springs in the world. A miracle. We found the bike shop. We had a couple of beers with JR and Bobby Magee in a little dive bar. We got the wheel fixed. It was our 8^th anniversary.

Everyone: That section of Route 64, from Taos to Chama (and 84 up to Pagosa Springs) was some of the prettiest road EVER. If you EVER GET THE CHANCE drive it, bike it, you won't be sorry.

Bartender @ Pagosa Bar: Thanks so much for the offer of your place! We wanted to text you to let you know we weren’t going to make it, but we didn’t have an area code for your cell—we got swept away by the errands of the afternoon/evening and it was too late to call you on your home phone! Thank you, thank you!

A CHANGE OF SCENERY!

About 25 miles NW of Taos we, thankfully, crossed into some new terrain; we were so done with the desert. The desert is beautiful in its way, but hard, hard, hard. All dried out and dusty and deadly-seeming. No water. All its scaly, pokey, biting life-forms…

The morning we left Taos the ride was boring and tiring until lunch-time; lots of wind, wild-fire smoke and a very slight uphill (so deceiving)—then at a spot called Tres Piedras we hit 8,000ft crossing a virtual line into the Rockies! The scrubby little desert bushes began to fade and we started to see trees again. Pine, Birch, Poplar. I just wanted to hug them. The landscape began to jut out, and up, and green-up. Little mountain streams trickling along the sides of the road. The epic-ness just exploded as we entered this new pristine alpine territory.

The grade got steeper but somehow it all felt easier, there was pretty stuff to look at—and did I mention—WATER! Every ½ mile Zach or I would say—‘we should camp there—its perfect’. Really, it is all so beautiful; snow-capped mountains in the distance, big valley-bowls, cloud-shadows racing across vast fields, patches of pine trees crawling up grassy slopes. Grasses of a thousand varieties! Picture the happy part of a cowboy movie from the 50’s where the snow melts and cowboys take their herds up through mountain passes to the summer pasture, calves frolicking, little busted-ass log cabins. Cinematic basically. New territory, so refreshing!