JUNE 4-- ONE MILE shy of our destination on Sunday, Zach’s rear wheel hub broke. It just gave up. 2,000 miles of carrying 175lb Zach and his 125lbs of stuff, and I guess it just had enough. Over the course of 52 miles that day we’d climbed 3,500 feet to about 10,000 feet above sea level. The air was thin. It was threatening rain. We had to push our bikes that last mile into the campsite at Hopewell Lake in the Carson National Forrest where we were hoping to get a shower (no dice btw).
We were in the literal MIDDLE OF NOWHERE. 52 miles back to Taos, 50 miles West to Chama, 100 miles from the bike shops in Pagosa Springs CO. The idea of back-tracking was too discouraging, so the plan was to stick our thumbs out and see if one of the three cars that might pass us the next day could bring us closer to Pagosa Springs, just across the border. As luck would have it, the next morning the camp-site host Sara took pity on us and brought us to Chama, where there would be more traffic. We really had no choice but to gladly accept her offer; we threw our stuff into the back of her Big Red Pickup and shared a very nice ride with her 50 miles down through the mountains.
In Chama we made a cardboard sign: BROKEN BIKE xxx PAGOSA SPRINGS (cause’ doncha know, we’re old pros at hitchhiking since our escapade a couple of weeks back) and 15 minutes later two old Apache dudes in a red pickup pulled over. They we’re cruising. I’m retired and my partner here is blind so we like to ride around together. There was no room in the cab, so Zach and I piled into the back with our bikes. We rode for another 50 miles, sitting in the dirty truck-bed, buffeted by wind watching the amazing scenery roll by.
They were planning on dropping us earlier but decided to just take us all the way to Pagosa Springs, allegedly home of the largest natural hot-springs in the world. A miracle. We found the bike shop. We had a couple of beers with JR and Bobby Magee in a little dive bar. We got the wheel fixed. It was our 8th anniversary.
Everyone: That section of Route 64, from Taos to Chama (and 84 up to Pagosa Springs) was some of the prettiest road EVER. If you EVER GET THE CHANCE drive it, bike it, you won't be sorry.
Bartender @ Pagosa Bar: Thanks so much for the offer of your place! We wanted to text you to let you know we weren’t going to make it, but we didn’t have an area code for your cell—we got swept away by the errands of the afternoon/evening and it was too late to call you on your home phone! Thank you, thank you!